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(Myristica fragrans) The seed of the yellow
nutmeg fruit, from which is also derived that other popular spice, mace.
The nutmeg is encased in a shiny, brittle, dark brown shell around which
the scarlet aril (mace) furls like a wisp of torn lace. The aril is
removed and dries, fading to become the ochre blades of mace as we know
it. The shell of the nutmeg is glossy when released from its fruit and
fragrant oils are apparent in the dried and slightly shriveled nutmeg
seed. For superior flavor, grate nutmeg only as you need it.
Although nutmeg was known to Europe long
ago as the 12th century, it was not until the Portuguese discovery of
the Spice Island (Moluccas) that nutmeg came into general use, and
abuse. Control of the spice became a license to print money and the
Dutch drove out the Portuguese after less than a hundred years of
occupation. They themselves were ousted by the British, but not before a
stronghold of nearly two centuries on production and marketing of the
spice. During the time of Dutch occupation, the production of nutmeg was
restricted and they systematically destroyed all nutmeg trees growing
anywhere but on the islands of Banda and Amboina. Their plans were
thwarted by fruit pigeons who swallowed nutmeg seeds and dropped them on
nearby islands.
The British introduced nutmeg trees to
Penang and later, Singapore. The largest producers of nutmeg are
Indonesia, Grenada (in the West Indies) and Sri Lanka.
For those who thought nutmeg was a flavor
restricted to the Western pastrycook's armory of spices, it is
interesting to note that it is one of the fragrant spices vital to spice
blends across India (garam masala), and curries generally (Indonesia,
Malaysia and India). Interestingly, although Sri Lanka is a major grower
of the spice, it does not feature much in that cuisine, except in
traditional Dutch sweets.
In Malaysia and Indonesia, the thick outer
shell of the yellow fruit which looks rather like an apricot, is sliced
finely, cooked and crystallized to make a fragrant candy called manisan
pala. This is sometimes served with cups of clear tea at the end of the
meal.
Purchasing and storing : Buy whole
nutmegs if possible. Nutmegs are almost round and about 3 cm long and
very slightly more in diameter. Some nutmegs are sold still in their
thin shells which must be cracked to reveal the fragrant kernel within.
Stored in an airtight jar they will keep indefinitely, but once grated
or crushed, the volatile oils and accompanying fragrance quickly
dissipate.
Preparation : Grate finely, ideally
just before use.
Medicinal uses : Nutmeg taken in very
large doses is said to cause hallucinations or drowsiness. It is alleged
to increase the intoxicating effects of alcohol, which perhaps would
explain its presence in recipes for eggnog. There are also claims that
it is an aphrodisiac. In Malaysia, nutmeg oil and nutmeg balm (important
commercial products) are used externally for muscular aches and pains,
sprains, bruises and insect bites. Internally (and the dose must be
carefully regulated) they are useful for relieving flatulence, nausea
and vomiting. They are also said to cure palpitation of the heart and
prevent swooning. Self-treatment is not recommended. Nutmeg contains the
hallucinogen myristicin.
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