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Homemade
mayonnaise is a revelation to anyone who has only ever eaten mayonnaise
out of a jar. It has real flavor, with hints of mustard and lemon, as
opposed to the insipid taste of the jarred version. You can adjust the
consistency of homemade mayonnaise depending on what you're using it for.
Stiff mayonnaise is good for serving with artichokes and deep-fried and
grilled foods, while a looser mayonnaise can be used as a sauce for
seafood or hot or cold cooked vegetables.
The
process of making mayonnaise is very much like making a vinaigrette,
except that the oil is emulsified into an egg yolk - mustard mixture
instead of just mustard. The mustard is stirred into the yolk to promote
the emulsion, along with a little lemon juice or vinegar for flavor.
Tasteless vegetable oils such as canola or safflower oil are used to make
all-purpose mayonnaises. Olive oil, or even nut oils, can be used to make
more distinctively flavored mayonnaises. Most mayonnaises can be made in a
blender, food processor, or by hand, using a wooden spoon or mortar with a
pestle as when making garlic mayonnaise, because the aggressive action of
a blender or food processor, or even a whisk, compromises the flavor of
the oil and turns it slightly bitter.
If you
are concerned about using raw egg yolks, cook them into a sabayon as
though you are making a hollandaise sauce and whisk in oil instead of
butter.
Basic
Mayonnaise (hand made method)
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Combine
the egg yolks, mustard and lemon juice or vinegar in a small bowl and
whisk until smooth.
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Start
by adding only a teaspoon of oil at a time, pouring it carefully down
the side of the bowl and whisking it into the egg yolk mixture a little
bit at a time.
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When
the mayonnaise stiffens slightly, you can add the oil more quickly -
about a tablespoon at a time.
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Continue adding oil until the mayonnaise is stiff. If the mayonnaise
becomes too stiff to work, add a little more lemon juice, vinegar or
water to loosen it.
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