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The scientific name for abalone is
Haliotis ruber or H.laevigata. depending on whether it has a
black lip or green lip. Then again it might be H.tuberculata (from
the Atlantic) or H.lamellosa (from the Mediterranean), or
H.rufescens, the true abalone or red abalone, fished in southern
Californian waters.
The word 'abalone' is in fact the
Californian Spanish name for the species known as 'sea ears'. One look at
the handsome shells will tell you why. These much-sought-after mollusks
with a firm texture and delicate flavor may be purchased fresh, canned or
dried.
Assuming you are willing to pay the asking
price for fresh abalone, two to three times the cost of premium eye
fillet, you must be prepared to tackle it with scouring brush and sharp
knife. The sharp knife is necessary to remove the intestines and frilly
outer rim and the brush to scrub away the dark coating from the foot
(white fleshy portion), which is the edible part. This part is muscle,
which the abalone tenses when wrenched from its rock, so it is necessary
to cut it into paper-thin slices, against the grain and then beat the
slices with a mallet until tender. Next, decide whether you want your
abalone short-cooked or long cooked. The first way is literally a matter
of a few seconds, the second requires many hours of gently simmering.
Canned abalone varies in tenderness
depending on the processing, Japanese brands usually being the best but
also the most expensive. Slice finely and add to cooked dishes at the last
moment, since it needs no further cooking. Or marinate the slices in soy
sauce, mirin, a few drops of sesame oil and pinch of sugar and serve as
part of a cold hors d'oeuvre. Don't waste the liquid in the can either;
add it to soups for a delicious flavor.
Dried abalone needs to be soaked for 4 days,
scrubbed clean and trimmed, simmered for at least 4 hours, drained,
rinsed, trimmed and sliced before using. The whole thing is rather
daunting and canned or fresh abalone produces better results.
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