A subtly sweet, fresh grassy taste makes
asparagus one of the most anticipated arrivals of spring. White asparagus
is simply green asparagus that's grown beneath a cover of soil or hay,
which prevents photosynthesis and gives white asparagus a crunchier
texture. Purple asparagus tends to have a somewhat sweeter taste than
green. The purple pigment turns green when heated.
To select :
Look for spears with a vivid color and no
blemishes and bruises. The buds at the tip should be tightly closed, and
the base of each stalk should appear freshly cut. Whether you choose
pencil-thin, standard or jumbo is a matter of personal preference. All can
be equally tender as long as they are fresh. For the best flavor, enjoy
asparagus at the peak of its season from March to May. At other times of
the year, the asparagus in your market has likely been flown in from a
distant country.
To store :
Remove any bands that bid the spears
together, and put the bases of the stems in a glass filled with about 2"
of water. Cover loosely with a plastic bag and refrigerate for up to 3
days. Changing the water daily will help the asparagus stay fresh longer,
but for the best flavor, enjoy asparagus soon after you've bought it.
To trim :
Hold one end of the asparagus spear in each
hand and bend the stalk. The spear will naturally break at the point where
it becomes tough.
To peel :
Thick, tough-skinned asparagus may need
peeling with a vegetable peeler. To avoid breaking the spears, lay each
flat on a work surface with the tip away from you and the stem end near
you. Using a vegetable peeler, peel from tip to stem end, working in that
direction only.
To blanch :
Blanching or parboiling asparagus makes it
perfect for a platter of fresh vegetables and dips. Trim the asparagus and
place in boiling water for 15 seconds (for small spears) to 30 seconds
(for longer spears). Transfer to paper towels, pat dry, and let cool.
To steam upright :
Trim asparagus and cut the stem ends level
with a knife. Using kitchen string, tie the asparagus together in a
bundle. You may need two separate bands of string to secure the bundle.
Place 1" of water in a tall, covered saucepan and bring to a simmer. If
needed, trim the asparagus to fit in the covered saucepan. Stand the
asparagus upright in the saucepan, cover and cook for 5 to 10 minutes,
depending upon the thickness. If you don't have a tall saucepan, use
another saucepan or a metal bowl of the same diameter to invert over the
asparagus.
To boil evenly :
Use a large, wide skillet. Add 1" of water
and heat to boiling. Add trimmed asparagus so that all the spears face the
same direction. Move the pan so that the stem ends are directly over the
heat and the tips are well off the burner. Boil just until crisp-tender,
about 4-6 minutes for 1 pound of asparagus.
To grill :
Preheat the grill and spray the grill grate
or a grilling screen with oil. Toss the spears in olive oil and put them
on the grilling screen, or thread them onto wooden skewers so that they
don't fall between the grate. Place the spears perpendicular to the bars
of the grate and grill 20 to 40 seconds per side (for thin spears) or 40
to 60 seconds (for thick spears) over a medium-hot fire. There will be
grill marks on the spears, but the asparagus may not look completely
cooked. That's ok. Transfer the spears to a plate; within 20 seconds, they
will soften and turn bright green. Season with salt, pepper and other
seasonings if desired.
To roast :
Spread the spears on a baking sheet and toss
with olive oil. Roast at 425oF about 2 minutes, then shake the
pan to turn over the spears and roast until tender, 2 to 3 minutes more.
Season with salt, pepper and other seasonings if desired.
To microwave :
Place trimmed asparagus in a microwaveable
dish with the tips pointing inward. The tips can overlap, if needed. Add
1/8" of water, cover and microwave on high power until just tender, 3 to 6
minutes (depending on thickness).
To stir-fry :
Cut 1 pound of trimmed asparagus into 2"
lengths. Heat 1 teaspoon oil in a wok or large skillet over high heat. Add
asparagus and toss until the spears start to turn bright green, about 45
seconds for thin spears. For thicker spears, add 1/4 to 1/2 cup stock or
water and immediately cover the pan. Steam for 30 seconds to 1 1/2
minutes, depending on the thickness. Season with salt and pepper, if
desired.
To test for doneness :
Pierce the stalk with the tip of a knife.
Consider asparagus done when the stalk is just tender and meets the knife
with a bit of resistance. Asparagus will continue cooking with residual
heat once it has left the heat, so cook it until crisp-tender.
To cool cooked asparagus :
Spread the spears in a single layer on a
rack or a towel. Avoid plunging them into a bowl of cold water, which
dilutes the flavor.
Chef's Tip :
Only the thickest, woodiest asparagus spears
need peeling. Even then, it isn't necessary to remove all of the skin,
because it is not the skin itself that makes the asparagus tough. Rather,
the skin forms a barricade around the interior fibers that need to be
softened. Once the skin is opened, even partially, the asparagus will cook
through more evenly. Save time by peeling just 2 strips on opposite sides
of each spear with a vegetable peeler. This will allow the heat to
permeate the tougher fibers faster. To preserve the nutrients, cook
asparagus in an upright position. Most of the nutrients are found in the
tips. Cooking asparagus upright also gently steams the tender tips while
the thicker stalks cook in the simmering water, resulting in even cooking
from top to bottom.
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