About Artichokes

Originally from the Mediterranean but now cultivated mainly in California, artichokes are the buds of a large thistle in the sunflower family. The edible portions include the base of the green leaves, the tender inner heart, and the base of the choke itself. Artichoke season is at its peak from March to May.

To select artichoke, rub it with your fingers and listen carefully. If it is tender, the leaves will squeak. A hollow and dry sound indicates a tough, overdeveloped heart. Hold the artichoke in the palm of your hand. Tender ones have a heavy, solid feel. Those with more mature and tougher chokes will feel light and less substantial because they have begun to dehydrate. Keep in mind that size doesn't matter. Size is an indication of where an artichoke grew on the plant, not its age or tenderness. Large ones grow at the top of the plant while smaller ones sprout from the sides of the stalk. And look kindly on artichokes with brown streaks or scars. These marks are known as the "kiss of the frost" and often indicate a delectable nutty flavor.

For storage, keep raw artichokes in a plastic bag in the coldest part of the refrigerator. They should last for at least 1 week if kept in this manner. When washing, plunge artichokes up and down in a sink full of cold water to dislodge any debris trapped between the leaves. To steam, put the artichokes, stem end up, in a steamer basket set over 3" of boiling salted water. This method gets steam to the leaves faster. Cover and cook until tender, about 15 minutes for baby artichokes and up to 45 minutes for large ones.

To test for doneness, just tug on one of the leaves. If it comes off easily, the artichokes is ready to eat. Drain by setting the artichokes upside down on a rack. Let it stand for several minutes before serving.

If you're cooking artichoke stems, peel and cook in salted, acidulated water. Though often discarded, artichoke stems can be as tender and delicious as the heart.

Artichokes could also be served with wine but however, wine enthusiasts agree that artichokes can ruin the flavor of a fine wine because it makes other food taste sweeter. Experts recommend skipping wine when eating a healthy dose of artichokes. If, however, you have your heart set on it, select a white wine with high acidity to counteract the sweetening effect.

To prevent discoloration, use only stainless steel knives or scissors when cutting artichokes. Carbon knives cause discoloring. Immediately rub the cut surfaces with lemon juice, or keep cut artichokes in acidulated water until you are ready to cook them. To cover raw and cut artichokes until cooking time, use parchment paper or plastic wrap, but not aluminum foil. For cooking, use stainless steel, nonstick, or enamel-coated pans, Avoid cooking artichokes in cast-iron or aluminum pots, as these metals will discolor artichokes. Also, add lemon juice, vinegar, or white wine to the cooking water.

In order to speed trimming and cooking, smash each artichoke facedown against a counter. This will loosen the leaves and spread them apart slightly, making the leaves easier to trim. It also allows heat to permeate the interior of the artichoke faster. Artichokes could be cooked using microwave or to pressure steam. To microwave, trim the artichokes, wrap each tightly in microwaveable plastic, and arrange in a circle on a carousel or plate. Microwave 4 to 6 large artichokes on high power until the stem ends can be easily pierced with a fork or small knife, about 15 to 20 minutes. Increase or decrease the time depending on the size and number of artichokes. If pressure-steaming, place the artichokes, right side up, in a basket in a pressure cooker. Add a few inches of water, lock on the top, and heat to high pressure. Pressure-steam at high pressure for 10 minutes for large artichokes and 7 minutes for medium. Release the steam immediately.